Chef Nalan on mission to preserve Kerala’s culinary heritage
KOTTAYM: Invasions can take many forms, from cultural to political. But in Kerala, one of the most impactful invasions may have been in the culinary realm. Over the years, countless heirloom recipes and traditional cooking techniques have been overshadowed by foreign food influences.
However, a beacon of resistance shines from Manarcad in Kottayam, where Chef Nalan is spearheading a movement to safeguard and transmit Kerala’s culinary heritage to future generations.
“Food is medicine. There is no such thing as healthy or unhealthy food, only healthy or poisonous food. You are what you eat,” proclaims Nalan, founder of the ‘Chef Nalan Culinary Academy’ in Manarcad, the only initiative in the state dedicated to imparting knowledge of traditional culinary practices to the youth.
Driven by a desire to revitalise and uphold traditional cooking methods, Nalan – originally Shine – is convinced that this endeavour will have a profound impact on combating lifestyle diseases and emerging health issues in future generations. He believes in John F Kennedy’s words ‘One person can make a difference, and everyone should try’.
“The human body is a temple, and we all recognise that health is indeed wealth. My goal is to educate the youth on what to eat and how to eat,” Nalan asserts.
The chef expresses concern over the disappearance of heirloom recipes and the potential loss of Kerala’s culinary heritage. He also argues for a government-supported system to preserve the state’s culinary heritage and educate the people on following healthy food habits.
At Nalan’s academy, a treasure trove of local culinary heritage awaits, with dishes like ‘kanthari chammanthi’ (Bird’s Eye chilli chutney), ‘muthassi rasam’, ‘ethaykka pulisseri’, and a variety of traditional curries served to visitors. Culinary enthusiasts from across the country and abroad flock to the academy to learn these unique practices. In fact, Dr MGR University of Culinary and Hospitality, Chennai, regularly sends its students for a two-week internship to Nalan’s academy, while a group from Sri Lanka recently visited to study the traditional techniques.
“Kerala should take pride in its traditional cuisine rather than shying away from it. By celebrating our own culinary heritage, we can promote tourism and showcase Kerala’s diverse food offerings,” Nalan says.
