Atalappam: More than a dish, it is the special dish of Kasimedu Meenavar

Chennai: As the salty breeze tells tales of the sea, the kitchens of Kasimedu come alive with the sweet and savoury aroma of atalappam. It is a beloved dish that has been passed down from generations of fishermen’s families. This delicacy remains hidden in the narrow lanes of the neighbourhood, making it one of Madras’ iconic dishes. As we walked down a lane near the N4 beach and Swallows bus stop, we came across Lakshmi’s atalappam shop. Fondly called Lakshmi akka by the locals and customers, she has been selling authentic atalappam for the past two years. Lakshmi says, “Earlier, I had suffered huge losses in the karuvadu and restaurant business. My daughters suggested me to start an atalappam shop. Since I was unsure about it, though my family has been making it for generations, I trained with someone to learn the nuances of it.” Though her goal was only to cover her expenses, Lakshmi was surprised by the varied responses her atalappam received. “We started by selling 30 atalappam daily. Now the number has grown to 100,” she adds. According to Lakshmi, atalappam is a special dish of the Kasimedu Meenavars. But why? “Made from wholesome ingredients and produced organically, these traditional dishes are hearty and filling for tired fishermen returning from the sea,” she explains. Made with a secret blend of rice, coconut and spices, these delicate, lacy pancakes are a testament to the community’s rich culinary heritage. With every bite, the soft crumb melts on the tongue, filling the taste buds with the mild sweetness of jaggery and the warmth of cardamom.

For those who don’t know, atalappam is a variation of vatlapam and is often referred to as Indian pizza by Kasimedu residents. What’s special is that these dishes are cooked only in earthen pots on natural stoves. “The fame of Atalappam is spreading far and wide. Earlier, only the locals knew about it, but now I have customers from Salem, Villupuram, Puducherry and Velankanni as it is available at affordable prices. It will now be available every week only on Sundays,” says the 42-year-old. —Take a culinary tour of Kasimedu and learn the story behind this delicious Atalappam at Lakshmi Akka Kadai, near Swallows Bus Stand, Desiya Nagar entrance. This lesser-known delicacy will be available regularly on Sundays from 1 am.